“Gamay is on its peak!” – says Bernard Hudelot, a funny 70 year-old winemaker, full of energy.
Hudelot has founded the Château de Villars Fontaine. Nevertheless, it is located at Hautes-Côtes de Nuits , in Burgundy, despite of being called château. Villars Fontaine is actually the property which encompasses the Domaine de Montmain, where the wines are made.
According to Monsieur Hudelot – a former professor in the wine institute at the University of Burgundy – Gamay has peaks of quality from time to time, according to the Earth’s successive climate changes. It seems there is a perfect switch between Pinot Noir and Gamay – when one is on its peak, the other is on the bottom and vice-versa.
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He believes that we are living in the era of Gamay. He has even prepared himself and printed out some document he furnishes to visitors and where he highlights with some confusing graphics where he tries to explain the phenomenon, even though these graphics only cover until the year of 1950.
The domaine has some peculiarities. They own 23 hectares, what represents almost three times the average size of estates in burgundy (8 hecatares). It is also one of a few places in Burgundy where there still exist vines of Gamay and Aligoté.
Also, the philosophy of the winery is that every wine has to be aged for very long and in new oak barrels – obviously, the newer the barrel is and the longer the wine stays in contact with it, the more it is going to pass oak smells and flavors.
The wine Gamay du Futur (Gamay of the future), a €35.00 bottle, Hudelot’s favorite ‘child’, the expression of his theory about this varietal, passes 36 months in contact with new oak.
Despite of Monsieur Hudelot’s beliefs, the final result is a wine with complete oaky aroma, with some little hints of fruits. In the palate, 100% oak flavors and tough tannins, coming from the wood.
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| Bernard Hudelot - "this is the era of Gamay!" |
In fact, Gamay is a varietal that does not matches well with wood. In Beaujolais, the ‘habitat’ of Gamay, only the high quality wines have (a little) contact with oak.
However, they make lots of good wines there, such as the Clos du Château – white with good freshness, some creaminess and white fruits such as peach – or Les Genévrières – a red full of ripen fruits, well integrated oak and nice tannins. In fact, they should focus on that.
It is always interesting to find wines made according to a unique philosophy. The visit to Château Villars Fontaine is worth it. There are lots of good wines to be tasted, some good deals and, if you are lucky, you will meet Monsieur Hudelot, spreading his sympathy and joy.
From Monday to Friday, from 8h30-12h / 13h30-18h (and Saturdays under reservations)
